The Drake

Taking its cues from both stylish bistros and old school country pub chic, The Drake is conveniently situated at the edge of the West End, far enough away from the bustle of the city centre without being inconvenient for the city centre. With a menu based firmly on comfort food, with generous portions and attentive service, it combines a fashionable interior with a comfortable atmosphere.

The wine list is diverse – plumping for a solid New Zealand white was a good complement to both fish and meat dishes – and the menu filled with classic favourites. Certainly, the locally sourced seafood is The Drake’s strength. Both the platter of smoked and shell fish, and the fish stew are simply presented and avoid fussy recipes, allowing the quality of the produce to dominate. The vegetarian options are solid, too: a falafel starter and the vegetable risotto are familiar treats.

The 10 oz rib-eye steak is the pride of the menu: offered with chunky chips, crisped to perfection, and a choice of sauces, this dish will challenge the largest appetite. The marbled meat is cooked to order, and the chef certainly knows how to get the balance between medium and rare. The Diane sauce is a winner, too. The range of deserts is limited, perhaps a recognition that the hearty main courses will be enough.

Nevertheless the crumble is, once again, sustained by the fresh ingredients, and the kitchen is ready to whip up a simple request for a fruit salad. As winter draws in, The Drake will become a firm favourite for anyone looking for good portions and warmth against the Glasgow cold. [Gareth K Vile]